The Chattri on the South Downs outside Brighton is a unique memorial which stands in memory of all Indian soldiers who died during the First World War, 1914-1918, but it is particularly associated with the fifty-three Hindu and Sikh soldiers who died in hospitals in Brighton during 1914-15 and whose remains were cremated at this spot. Twenty-one Muslims who died in Brighton were buried at the Sha Jehan mosque in Woking.

It is well known that Brighton’s Royal Pavilion – in 1914 a museum – was rapidly adapted as a hospital for Indian sick and wounded from France and Flanders. In fact, rather larger numbers of Indians were hospitalised at two other locations in the town – the Poor Law Institution (or Workhouse) in Elm Grove and the York Place schools. Around 12,000 Indians convalesced in Brighton and seventy-four died in the town. This number may at first glance seem unfeasibly small, but all the men who arrived at Brighton had undergone treatment at clearing hospitals in France and endured journeys in ambulances, trains and hospital ships before they arrived here. Of course, in some cases later complications with their wounds caused death; others died of sickness, but all in all the small number of dead speaks well for the care provided in the three Brighton hospitals.

The original idea for a memorial is attributed to Lieutenant Das Gupta of the Indian Medical Service, who approached the then mayor of Brighton, Mr J. (later Sir John) Otter in August 1915 for permission to erect a memorial on the site where cremations took place. The mayor embraced the idea with great enthusiasm and became the driving force behind it. From study of a bulky file preserved in the India Office Library the debt to Sir John Otter becomes increasingly apparent. After his death, a succession of reluctant town clerks wrangled over maintenance.

In 1916 Otter wrote that he envisaged: ‘a tablet with names and to contain one of the stone slabs on which cremation took place.’ The three original cremation slabs (one can only presume that more deaths were expected than actually took place) are incorporated in the design of the memorial, but a tablet bearing the names of the dead was not put in place. However, see below for recent developments in this regard.

Independently, the King’s commissioner in charge of the welfare of Indian troops, Sir Walter Lawrence, thought that a memorial should be erected. In December 1915 he wrote to the India Office:

I feel that it would be wise on political and historical grounds to spend a good deal of care and some money on preserving the memory of the Indians who have died in France and in England.

Sir Walter Lawrence, December 1915

On 16th February 1916 the Secretary of State for India, The Rt. Hon. Austen Chamberlain, concurred. He was: ‘in entire accord with Sir Walter Lawrence’s recommendations.’ These included: ‘that where cremation has been resorted to, a simple monument of an oriental character should be erected on the site of the crematorium.’ But there the matter rested until Alderman John Otter’s proposals came to the attention of the India Office in June 1916.

Delay and Frustration, 1916-1920

Within days of Otter’s proposal the India Office gave it favourable consideration and initial progress was rapid. Negotiations to convey the land upon which the cremations took place (and the area immediately around it) to the County Borough of Brighton was soon under way, and the land (property of the Marquess of Abergavenny – ‘a lunatic’) was conveyed to Brighton by 31st July 1916.

Funding was quickly agreed. The India Office and Brighton Corporation would bear half each of the cost of erection, but Brighton alone would be responsible for ongoing care and maintenance. For the India Office this was a remarkably good deal: Brighton council remains responsible for care and maintenance of the memorial and grounds to this day, with no input from central government.

John Otter consulted the architect Colonel Sir Swinton Jacob (an old India Hand with responsibility for various public works in the subcontinent) about a suitable form for a memorial and he sketched out a 'chattri', a traditional Indian style of memorial, with an umbrella shaped roof symbolic of protection for those commemorated, recommending that ‘Mr. Henriques, a young native architect just completing his studies in England’ should be requested to undertake the design. Mr. E.C. Henriques agreed and the design was completed by December 1916.

The India Office allowed Brighton Council complete discretion as to design and choice of material. Considerable thought was given to implementation of the design, bearing in mind cost of materials, the position on the Downs, ‘exposed to the action of the weather, and to the ill treatment of mischievous boys.’ Granite, sandstone and Sicilian marble were considered, and the latter material adopted on the advice of the Curator of the Geological Survey and Museum.

The centre of the memorial is the ‘Chattri’ itself, which stands on a square base within a walled area, with steps in front down to three granite slabs which cap the original concrete cremation blocks. The memorial bears the following inscription in Hindi and English:

To the memory of all the Indian soldiers who gave their lives for the King-Emperor in the Great War, this monument, erected on the site of the funeral pyre where the Hindus and Sikhs who died in hospital at Brighton, passed through the fire, is in grateful admiration and brotherly affection dedicated.

In January 1917 the General Purposes Committee of Brighton Council voted £750 to the scheme and this was matched by the India Office. The ex-mayor, now Sir John Otter, invited firms to tender for the work. Seven tenders were received, ranging in price from £2000 to £3200. The Town Clerk estimated that a satisfactory result could be obtained for an all inclusive price of £2500 and intimated that the town would increase its commitment to 50% of that sum. The India Office approved an increase in its commitment, ‘not to exceed a maximum of £1,300.’ Shortly thereafter, it having been decided to execute the work in Sicilian marble, the estimate was raised to £3000 and in August the India Office again agreed to increase its share.

William Kirkpatrick Ltd. of Manchester was engaged to carry out the work, but due to wartime conditions all building projects costing more than £500 required a licence from the Ministry of Munitions. The blow fell in a letter from the Ministry dated 4th August:

I am directed to express much regret that at the present time, when labour of all kinds is immediately required for very urgent National work, and there are great difficulties in connection with the transport of materials, it has been found impossible to grant the licence for which you have applied.

After further correspondence the Ministry agreed to stonework being worked in quarries, as long as preparatory work on site and actual shipment of stone be postponed until a licence could be granted. The contract with Kirkpatrick’s was duly signed on 20th April 1918, the total cost being given as £2523. Setbacks continued to dog the project. In February 1919 Kirkpatrick reported that the Italian marble contractor was refusing to honour his contract owing to war conditions in Italy. The marble was ultimately received in May 1920.

Construction

In August 1920 Sir John Otter was finally able to report that the Chattri was under construction. The wording, as with so many facets of the project, seems to have been devised by Otter, as the Secretary of State for India, now the Rt. Hon. E.S. Montague, wrote to him: ‘Your draft is in every way admirable,’ suggesting just one change, the substitution of the words ‘were cremated’ for the original ‘passed through the fire.’ Happily this suggestion was ignored and the emotive original wording retained. By the end of 1920 the memorial had been built. It only remained to install protective fencing and the layout of the surrounding garden, which incorporated four miniature avenues of red and white thorn trees pointing north, south, west and east, the whole area turfed with ‘true down turf which is the finest in the world.’ The end cost of the entire scheme was £4964, the costs of materials and labour having risen rapidly during the realisation of the project (including £1117 spent on a caretaker’s cottage).

Unveiling Ceremony, 1st February 1921

As the Chattri neared completion thought began to be given to who might be suitable to unveil the memorial. Brighton Corporation approached the Duke of Connaught. He was the seventh child of Queen Victoria and a professional soldier who had held several important commands in India. He had learnt Hindustani and regarded Indians with ‘understanding and affection’ [DNB] in July 1920. Unfortunately the Duke was going abroad in mid-November. Sir W. Duke at the India Office then advised Sir John: ‘I hardly think it would be any use trying to get HRH the Prince of Wales as I believe he is not making many public engagements at present…’ Nothing daunted, Sir John approached the Prince of Wales who duly accepted and the date was set for 21st February 1921.

Uncertain Future

The Corporation of Brighton is the owner and Guardian of the Chattri

Sir John Otter, 1923

During 1923 the matter of ongoing maintenance – and who was going to pay for it – was debated at length in correspondence between the India Office and the Corporation. The latter seems to have borne its responsibility lightly, although there is evidence of proper concern for the care of the Chattri in the decision to employ an on-site caretaker. The caretaker’s cottage was completed in 1923 and the first caretaker appointed. He was a former regimental sergeant-major and lived there with his wife. They were paid modestly and it was envisaged that they would be able to supplement their income by selling tea to visitors. Visitor numbers, however, did not allow for much tea-selling. The caretaker died after a few years and his wife struggled on for a few months but eventually gave up the cottage. An aspirant to the post, enquiring in 1934 whether there was a vacancy was told that it was not proposed to appoint another caretaker as ‘the cottage has been dismantled.’ Apparently it had been impossible to keep the post full owing to the remoteness of the location.

Years of Neglect

On 16th December 1924 the Imperial War Graves Commission (IWGC) wrote to the India Office (which everyone seemed to imagine was responsible for the Chattri): ‘There have been unfavourable references in the papers lately to the condition of the memorial on Patcham Downs near Brighton.’

In 1932 a walker reported on the sorry state in which he found the memorial:

It is now neglected. Overgrown with thistles and what I should call if I were on a tub in Hyde Park 'a disgrace to the British nation'.

Anon, 1932

This stirred the India Office, which wrote to the Town Clerk. He refuted the allegations of neglect, but presumably he was pressed into taking some action and a minute on the India Office file, while doubting his veracity, states: ‘The important thing is that he is doing something.’

Further complaints from walkers and visitors continued sporadically, and in 1939 the India Office suggested seeking the advice of the IWGC which undertook a thorough survey and drew up a plan for maintenance. At the same time, possibly piqued into activity by the India Office initiative, the Brighton Parks and Gardens Department came up with its own plans for repair and renovation. The best course of action was debated and the IWGC plan was favoured, but as ever Brighton Corporation appeared unwilling to meet its original commitment and argued over responsibility for payment.

The Second World War

Nothing was done and further complaints were received at the India Office, but in any case the land was now requisitioned as part of the Downland Training Area, a ‘battle training ground’ within which there was live firing and any renovation work would have been impracticable. A retired Indian Army officer who visited the memorial in Armistice week 1945 wrote to Field Marshal Lord Birdwood that it was: ‘in a thoroughly dilapidated condition and has apparently been used as a target by troops during training as the memorial is now cracked and pitted by rifle bullets.’ One cannot be too hard on the young Canadians training for D Day. The memorial still bears these ‘honourable scars of war’ (as the Director General of the CWGC recently referred to them) and when the land was derequisitioned in 1946 the War Office accepted the charge for repairs and agreed to restore the Chattri to its original condition.

Post-war

Commencing in 1951, the British Legion organised an annual memorial service on a Sunday in June. This took place until 1999 when (amid some fairly wild and wide of the mark accusations of racism in the columns of the Guardian newspaper) they decided that they could no longer maintain the ceremony, citing old age and declining numbers.

An Order of Service for the 1970 Chattri Pilgrimage, as it was known, survives: there was an Address by the Chaplain of the Patcham Branch of the British Legion (who was also the vicar of Patcham) followed by prayers, the wreath laying ceremony, the Last Post (sounded by the Patcham Church Band), the Legion Exhortation and the Reveille. Then an Address by the branch president, Reply by His Excellency the High Commissioner for India and the Blessing. After the ceremony there was a parade around the memorial before refreshments were served by the Ladies of the Patcham Women’s Section, followed by a welcome to all the Indian Party from London in the Patcham Memorial Hall, Old London Road.

Hearing of the demise of the Chattri Pilgrimage, Davinder Dhillon, a local Sikh teacher, approached the British Legion with a view to resurrecting the event and under his stewardship it has continued to be held annually on the second Sunday in June since 2000.

With representatives of the Undivided Indian Ex-Service Association from various parts of the United Kingdom present, as well as the Brighton and Hove Hindu Elders Group, the Deputy Lieutenant of the county, the Mayor, members of the armed forces and police and many local people, a unique and fittingly dignified yet inclusive, warm and friendly memorial service is maintained.

Recent Developments at the Chattri

Four or five years ago the writer of this piece was invited to join the Editor for a day at the British Library’s India Office Records. The latter, knowing of the interests of the former, had helpfully identified the original file of correspondence (L/MIL/7/19548) from which most of the above history has been compiled. As noted above, it had been the intention of Sir John Otter to erect a plaque bearing the names of the cremated soldiers; however, the establishments of the various Indian Hospitals – and their records – were in far off lands when the memorial came to be designed. No names were available and no plaque was erected. In the intervening years various figures have been quoted in published works, and none of them were correct. Even CWGC records were inaccurate.

However, the India Office file on the Brighton Memorial contained returns supplied in 1918, at the request of the Secretary of State for India, by the units involved. These give the regiment, regimental number, rank, name, date of death and place of cremation or burial of the Brighton dead.

The writer began to cross-check these records with those available online from the CWGC. Due to misspelling of names this was not always straightforward, but nearly all could be reconciled with men commemorated at Neuve Chapelle or on the Hollybrook Memorial at Southampton. Some of them included a note that they had been cremated at Patcham Down, but many did not (this has resulted in some of the misstated figures bandied about in various books). In due course findings were presented to the CWGC and with the help of Derek Butler of their Records Section the last few names were pinned down (Derek had the ability to undertake more complex searches than are available to the general public using the CWGC website). The names have now been accepted by the CWGC as the definitive list of those fifty-three men cremated at Patcham and the records changed to reflect this.

It was the ambition of the writer to persuade the CWGC that it had a duty to erect a panel with these names at the Chattri site, but the initial response was that the Commission had fulfilled its obligation as the names were recorded on other memorials – albeit erroneously. There the matter stood until July 2008 when the Director General of the CWGC, Richard Kellaway CBE, accompanied by the Commission’s Indian representative, General Stanley Menezes, were greeted at the Chattri by members of the Chattri Memorial Group. The Group took the opportunity to press home their view that: (a) the current arrangements for commemorating the men cremated at the Chattri were at the very least misleading as the men were not ‘missing’; (b) the Chattri, where they were cremated, was the proper place for them to be commemorated; (c) there were precedents for ‘cremation memorials’ as there are others in several countries where Indian soldiers had been thus treated. Within a few weeks we heard the splendid news that the DG agreed with us, and he was sending the Commission’s Director of Technical Services, Brian Davidson MBE, and Architect, Barry Edwards, down to meet the Chattri Memorial Group. A survey of the memorial was undertaken and various ideas were discussed. It was decided that it would be inappropriate to alter or add to the original memorial, a listed structure and potentially a source of conflict over responsibility for maintenance. Instead it was agreed that the CWGC would build a new memorial within the Chattri compound, bearing the names, regiments and so forth together with suitable commemorative wording. The best position was agreed, bearing in mind accessibility for wreath-laying ceremonies and so forth (the site of the Chattri covers several acres and is on steeply rising ground), as well as the movement of the sun and how this might catch the engraved lettering in such a way that it would be legible for the longest part of daylight. Ideas for replanting and general maintenance of the wider site were also discussed.

The situation now (January 2009) is that the Chattri Memorial Group is waiting for the architectual plan to be completed and in due course for building to commence on the first CWGC 1914-1918 memorial to be erected since the 1920s.

The issue of ongoing care and maintenance of the site has also been discussed with the Chief Executive of Brighton council and other officials. The Chattri Memorial Group continues to lobby and the hope is that a contractual arrangement will eventually be reached whereby the CWGC carries out annual cleaning of the original memorial at the same time as it cleans the new memorial (which will be its responsibility from the outset) and that regular horticultural maintenance will also be undertaken.

A more detailed historical essay on the Chattri can be found on the Chattri Memorial Group website including an account of one of the cremations held there, photographs of the memorial and so forth.

Should any IMHS member visit Brighton and wish to visit the Chattri please contact Tom Donovan, secretary of the Chattri Memorial Group (email tom@turnerdonovan.com) for directions. Other commitments permitting, members of the Chattri Memorial Group will gladly act as guides and point out various items of interest.

Picture credit: Jagdip Singh Kang

Appendix 1

Breakdown of Deaths of Indians in Brighton Hospitals

  • Kitchener Hospital (formerly the Poor Law Institution, Elm Grove)
    Thirty-six deaths. Twenty-five Hindus/Sikhs cremated at Patcham; eleven Mohammedans buried at Woking.

  • Royal Pavilion
    Eighteen deaths. Ten cremated at Patcham; eight buried at Woking.

  • York Place Hospital
    Twenty deaths. Eighteen cremated at Patcham; two buried at Woking.

  • Total cremated on the Downs at Patcham 53

  • Total buried at Woking 21

Total deaths 74

Appendix 2

Complete list of casualties

Name No. and Rank Regiment or Corps Died
Anokh Lal 4292 Havildar 5th Ammunition Column, Indian Royal Artillery 27/07/15
Arora Ramratan Bom/212 Follower (Dhobi) Supply & Transport Cps att'd No. 1 Ind. General Hospital 22/04/15
Bagh Singh 3298 Sowar 34th Prince Albert Victor's Own Poona Horse 08/07/15
Bakhtawar Sing Negi 1740 Rifleman 2nd Bn. 39th Garhwal Rifles 17/03/15
Bal Bahadur Gurung 765 Rifleman Burma Mil. Police att'd 1st Bn. 1st Gurkha Rfls (Malaun Regt) 25/06/15
Bala 9202 Doolie Bearer 9th Coy, Army Bearer Cps, att'd 27th British F.C. Ambulance 06/09/15
Balwant Singh 1432 Rifleman 125th Napier's Rifles 24/02/15
Bara Singh 4835 Sepoy 59th Scinde Rifles (Frontier Force) 17/11/15
Bhag Singh 2931 Sepoy 52nd Sikhs (Frontier Force) att'd 59th Scinde Rifles (FF) 18/03/15
Bhartman Rai 1539 Rifleman Burma Military Police attached 1st Bn. 4th Gurkha Rifles 04/10/15
Bhartu 27 Follower (Cook) 6th Jat Light Infantry 15/03/15
Chandarbhan 2999 Sepoy 91st Punjabis attached 2nd Bn. 39th Garhwal Rifles 21/03/15
Dadu Shinde 4313 Naik 107th Indian Pioneers 13/07/15
Dasarat 6180 Follower (Assistant Cook) Army Hosp Cps att'd 2nd Clearing Hosp & 15th Brit. F.C. Amb. 08/09/15
Debibahadur Thapa 2032 Rifleman 1st Bn. 9th Gurkha Rifles 31/07/15
Dillu 2132 Sepoy 69th Punjabis 22/10/15
Dirga Sing Thapa 3590 Rifleman 1st Bn. 3rd Queen Alexandra's Own Gurkha Rifles 17/03/15
Gangu Burathoki 2798 Rifleman 1st Bn. 1st King George's Own Gurkha Rifles (The Malaun Regt) 31/03/15
Gathri Negi 2884 Rifleman 39th Garhwal Rifles 21/04/15
Gaur Sing Negi 1046 Naik 3nd Bn. 39th Garhwal rifles 13/01/15
Godar 3926 Sepoy 40th Pathans 24/10/15
Harnham Singh 3535 Sepoy 15th Ludhiana Sikhs 17/02/15
Hazara Singh 1425 Sepoy 47th Sikhs 22/03/15
Jahan Singh Jemadar 29th Lancers (Deccan Horse) 08/07/15
Jai Singh 1125 Sepoy 41st Dogras 27/10/15
Jasdhoj Limbu 1872 Rifleman Assam Military Police attached 1st Bn. 4th Gurkha Rifles 17/12/15
Jog Singh 4644 Sepoy 124th D of C's Own Baluchistan Infy, att'd 47th Sikhs 13/11/15
Kallu 738 Saddler 11th Mule Corps 24/03/15
Kharak Sing Butola 1575 Rifleman 2nd Bn. 39th Garhwal Rifles 15/04/15
Kishn Chand 1299 2nd Cl. Sub-Asst Surgeon Indian Medical Dept, attached 11th Indian Field Ambulance 05/05/15
Kishn Lal 3943 Sepoy 112th Indian Infantry attached 1st Bn. 6th Jat Light Infantry 22/10/15
Kure Meerut 19/567 Follower Army Hospital Corps attd. Secunderabad General Hospital 30/12/15
Lachhman Rai 1749 Rifleman Burma Military Police attached 1st Bn. 9th Gurkha Rifles 22/10/15
Lal Bahadur Ghale 4498 Rifleman 2nd Bn. 8th Gurkha Rifles 07/02/15
Makhli Sing Rawat 1544 Rifleman 2nd Bn. 39th Garhwal Rifles 17/03/15
Mangal Singh 329 Drummer 19th Punjabis attached 15th Ludhiana Sikhs 26/02/15
Manjit Gurung 3850 Rifleman 2nd King Edward's Own Gurkha Rifles (The Sirmoor Rifles) 20/05/15
Mansing Gurung 4827 Rifleman 2nd Bn. 8th Gurkha Rifles 13/11/15
Manta Singh Subadar 15th Ludhiana Sikhs 20/03/15
Mohiya Ram 281 Store-keeper Supply & Transport Corps attached Z Indian Gen. Hospital 13/10/15
Phuman Singh 3702 Sepoy 58th Vaughan's Rifles (Fr. Force) 31/12/14
Pyare Singh 3336 Sepoy 54th Sikhs (Frontier Force) att'd 58th Vaughan's Rifles (F.F.) 11/11/15
Rabel Singh 3539 Sepoy 58th Vaughan's Rifles (Fr. Force) 21/07/15
Ramparshad Thapa 2623 Rifleman 1st Bn. 9th Gurkha Rifles 12/01/15
Ranbahadur Sahi 2233 Rifleman 1st Bn. 9th Gurkha Rifles 26/03/15
Rhagha Sing 3658Sepoy 9th Bhopal infantry 05/01/15
Santa Sing 3946 Sepoy 58th Vaughan's Rifles (Fr. Force) 29/05/15
Sarupa 7417 Follower (Ward Servant) Army Hospital Corps att'd 112 Ind. Corps Field Ambulance 13/02/15
Shankar Singh 679 Driver 7th Mountain Battery, Royal Garrison Artillery Indian Army 11/05/15
Sulakkhan Sing 3410 Sepoy 58th Vaughan's Rifles (Fr. Force) 07/02/15
Tilok Sing Danu 2290 Rifleman 1st Bn. 39th Garhwal Rifles 29/07/15
Tulsiram Sarki 1800 Rifleman 2nd Bn. 2nd King Edward's Own Gurkha Rifles (The Sirmoor Rfls) 26/07/15
Vithu Khawri 4296 Sepoy 107th Indian Pioneers 12/02/15
Moslems
Abdullah Syce 32nd Signal Coy. 16/12/15
Alla Ditta Khan 2262 Sowar 15th Lancers (Cureton's Multanis) 03/02/16
Bostan 1154 Driver 9th Mule Corps 19/10/15
Fazal Khan 2858 Naik 93rd Burma Infantry attd. Meerut Divisional Signals 14/11/15
Garib Ala Did 2154 Driver 1st Mule Corps 06/04/15
Hansa 209 Cook Army Hospital Corps, "Y" Indian General Hospital, Brighton 07/12/15
Inayat Khan 198 Driver Indore Transport Corps 07/06/15
Inzar Gul 3217 Sepoy 57th (Wilde's) Rifles (Fr. Force) 19/01/15
Kala Khan 693 Driver 2nd Mountain Battery, Royal Garrison Artillery, Indian Army 02/02/16
Lajbar 2196 Havr Major 57th (Wilde's) Rifles (Fr. Force) 06/05/15
Langar Khan 2344 Sowar 36th Jacob's Horse 24/04/15
Mahrup Shah 155 Sepoy Burma Military Police attd. 129th Baluchis 16/09/15
Muhammad Sarwar 3591 Sowar 19th Lancers (Fane's Horse) 19/06/15
Rahim Dad Khan 1788 Sowar 34th Prince Albert Victor's Own Poona Horse 22/02/15
Sarmast 2962 Sepoy 57th (Wilde's) Rifles (Fr. Force) 22/07/15
Shaikh Abdul Wahab 2278 Sowar 29th Lancers (Deccan Horse) 16/07/15
Shaikh Mohiuddin 9562 Bearer 112th Field Ambulance 05/01/16
Sher Muhammad 48 Sepoy 59th Scinde Rifles (Frontier Force) 18/03/15
Sikandar Khan 2253 Sepoy 82nd Punjabis 25/09/15
Sultan 591 Driver 2nd Mule Corps 28/04/15
Zarif Khan 304 Sepoy 127th Baluch Light Infantry att'd 129th Baluchis 22/07/15

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